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Chacachacare IslandOvergrown with moss, covered in wild vines, abandoned, littered with the remains of history.  Once a community demarked by devotion, dedication, fascinating architecture, pain and suffering; outcast from the mainland of Trinidad and Tobago.  Why has Chacachacare been left to neglect?  Is it the suspicion that somehow the microbacterium leprae (the aetiological agent of LEPROSY) still infects an island that, until a mere 33 years ago, housed a Leprosarium?  Is it the vandalism by our own Regiment who cut out the walls in the shape of humans to be used as target practice?  Is it the legend of a nun who fell in love and drowned just off the coast who it is claimed still haunts the dormitory?

In 1868, Governor Arthur Hamilton, appalled at the conditions in Cocorite, where the previous Leprosarium was housed, asked the Roman Catholic Archbishop to bring the Dominican Sisters from France to care for the lepers.  At this time, this was a heroic calling; there was no cure for leprosy disease.  One account spoke of lepers losing their sight, their faces hideously distorting, their fingers and toes rotting off and the pungent smell of rotting flesh.  Sadly, the Sisters were not immune to this, but considered it their life devotion.

On the 29th December, 1921 Acting Governor Best issued the following eviction order:

          "Notice is hereby given that in pursuance of the authority vested in me by Clause...ALL THE LANDS situated in the Island of Chacachacare...have been appropriated for the purpose of establishing a Leper Settlement."

A church, hospital, dormitory, quarters for the chaplain and a chapel was built on the island.  Lepers lived in small cottages along the coast; male patients lived in Coco Bay, females lived in Sanders Bay.  

As new drugs were developed, and more research proved that Lepers did not have to be shut away from the general population, the Leprosarium was closed; the last patient departing in 1984 leaving Chacachacare to the mercy of wanton neglect (Retout, 1988; Alleyne, 2017).

Tracking Station - A scenic walk through Bamboo Cathedral, up the grassy undergrowth hill leads to the remains of an old satellite dish and an abandoned building where many a hiking enthusiast gracefully pose in admiration of completion of their hiking feat.  During the Cold War in the 1960's tensions remained high between the United States of America and Russia. The threat of intercontinental missiles were real.  

This led to the USA developing a Missile Early Warning System (MEWS).  The prototype was developed in Chaguaramas which was leased to the USA since 1941.  MEWS required two types of radars, fence antennae for initial detection (the foundation post can still be seen) and a fully steerable tracking dish whose remnants can be seen today.  

Already a sore point with Dr. Eric Williams and his administration and considered an affront to national sovereignty, the Chaguaramas issue was compounded with the construction of the Tracking Station without the knowledge or consent of the Government of Trinidad and Tobago.  Tensions rose and reached boiling point in April 1960 when thousands assembled in Woodford Square and the 1941 bases agreement was ceremoniously burnt.  

The refusal of the Dr. Eric Williams led administration to back down on the issue would ultimately lead to the return of Chaguaramas and the Tracking Station site to the people of Trinidad and Tobago (Alleyne, 2017).

St. Chad's Anglican Church - On the Macqueripe Road in Chaguaramas, on the way to the ever popular Macqueripe Beach and Zip Lining, stands the remains of St. Chad's Anglican Church and the Tomb of Amelia Tripp.  In 1850, Daniel Cave, who was the owner of Mount Pleasant Estate, donated 22,800 square feet of land to the Anglican diocese for the construction of a church.  The original church was built in 1850 out of wood, but fell into disrepair after 18 years of service.  By the end of 1915, with the help of the people of Mt. Pleasant Village and the estate workers through Agnes Tripp, a new church was constructed.  This church remained in use until the United States of America army was given Chaguaramas for use as a military base.   

Within the Church's cemetery can be seen many graves, but none more prominent than the Tomb of Amelia Tripp.  Amelia was the daughter of William Tucker who owned the majority of estates in Chaguaramas.  After William Tucker died, Amelia married his business partner, Edgar Tripp.  Amelia Tripp died under unknown circumstances in the months after her marriage in 1879 at the age of 23.  

The legend states that Amelia Tripp died so her property could be inherited and she still roams the Macqueripe Road, but this cannot be substantiated (Alleyne, 2017).

Knollys Tunnel - On the 20th August, 1898, the Colonial Governor of Trinidad and Tobago (Ag) Sir Courtney Knollys officially opened the new railway tunnel; finally creating a linkage between Rio Claro and Tabaquite.  The tunnel, at 660 feet in length, was by far the longest in the Caribbean at the time.  The tunnel was built to avoid a steep hill in the Tabaquite area.

Operations ceased on the 30th August, 1965; a day when emotions ran high and climaxed with the residents of Caparo, as a result of the decision to discontinue the rail service, stoned the train and blocked the lines at Jeffers Halt.  Knolley Tunnel remained in a state of neglect until the 13th August, 1991 when after restoration works had been completed, the Honorable Minister of the Environment, Dr. Lincoln Myers, re-opened the tunnel as a natural heritage site (Guardian, 1991; Beadon 2009).

Sangre Grande Post Office - The postal service is a vitally important institution in the history and development of Trinidad and Tobago.  The railway arrived in 1897 at Cunapo; some two miles from Sangre Grande Village.  Even though the station was located in Cunapo, it was named Sangre Grande Railway Station.  On the 2nd May 1897, the post office moved from the rest house to a new office opposite the railway station, the remains of which we see today.  In 1899, the Postmistress was Mrs. B.J. Laing who earned a salary of GBP 25.00 p.a (Chin and Proud, 1997).

Manzanilla Post Office - Think back to  time when communication required a walk for miles to give that message in person.  In today's age of email and social media it may be difficult to truly envision, but the postal service was a revolutionary necessity to the community.  On the 31st March, 1888 the Manzanilla Post Office was moved from the Manzanilla Police Station to Mr. Graham's (Catechist) house;  the ruins of which now remain.  The Postmaster at this time was J.M. Scobie who earned GBP 12.10 p.a until 1916.  Mails were closed at 6:00 p.m Tuesdays and Thursdays arriving in Port of Spain by 12:15 p.m the following day.  This opened many doors by drawing communities, once segregated, closer together (Chin and Proud, 1997). 

Diego Martin Waterwheel - River Estate, with its locally famous Waterwheel had been one of the largest estates in Diego Martin.  The last known owner of the full estate was Nicholas Brunton in 1870.  Confectioners Cadbury Brothers Limited owned 1200 acres in 1947.  "That's right. You guessed it...Cocoa and Sugar were king."

This Waterwheel is the last remaining of three that were established in Trinidad.  The water flowing under the wheel turned it in a clockwise direction providing power for the rollers of the mill to crush the cane.  A once revolutionary idea; today encroaching on the space for small goal football played by local residents (Express, 1999; Newsday, 1999; De Verteuil, 1987).

Usine St. Madeline Sugar Factory - Subsequent to the abolition of slavery, the Colonial Company acquired estates in and around St. Madeline.  To process the raw sugar cane, the largest and by far the most modern factory in the sugar producing countries was built in 1870 - Usine St. Madeline Sugar Factory.  

The factory could refine 460 tons of sugar per day in crop season.  There are three ponds around the factory, one north of the plant which contained spring fed water for cooling the steam driven machinery, one located near the sports club which watered livestock and a settling pond which is where the effluent from the refining process ended.  

One noteworthy story coming out of the Usine St. Madeline Sugar Factory was that of an indentured laborer named Gokool Meah (1847-1939) who after securing his own indentureship decided to purchase a donkey cart and made a living hauling sugarcane from the estates to the factory.  After a few years he was able to sell his cart and open a retail business.  He then went into cocoa estates, then to real estate, eventually becomming the owner of Globe cinema and several other cinemas around Port of Spain and San Fernando;  all from that one donkey cart.

In 1960, Caroni bought out Usine St. Madeline Sugar Factory and in 1975 the Trinidad and Tobago Government purchased the conglomerate calling it Caron (1975) Limited (Express, 2012; Guardian, 2014; Bissessarsingh, 2015).

Caparo Train Platform and Water Tank - A drive along the Caparo Main Road would bring you to a dirty, dilapidated bus shed and a worse for the wear water tank.  Most commuters would drive past without even a secondary glance.  However, unbeknownst to most, there is a deep history that envelops these two old relics, and it goes as far back as the period of the railway industry.

In 1898, the railway line branched off from the Cunupia Farm, a point on the Southern Line and ran through the Caparo Village to Tabaquite.  A train platform was built in Caparo where residents would meet the train heading to Tabaquite.  The foundation of that train platform is what remains today and this is what the bus shed was built on top of.  The Water Tank was utilized for the steam engine locomotives.   

While these relics have survived the test of time, constant neglect is seeing another part of our history being lost (internationalsteam, 2014; ptsc, 2017).

Caroni Bridge - The bridge was erected in 1873 when Sir J. R. Longden was Governor of Trinidad and Tobago.  It was designed by the late Daniel Hahn whose notable works include:  Queens Royal College, the Red House, and the Royal Victoria Institute (the museum).  The bridge was the main avenue for people wanting to cross the Caroni River in the early 20th century.

Bissoon Indarsingh, father of Trade Unionist Rudy Indarsingh, once stated that the area near the silver bridge was used by villagers as a liming spot, to catch fish and drink alcohol as entertainment was limited in the 1950's.  

The original silver bridge was painted orange and still stands because the Government stopped the dismantling of bridges until a forensic investigation was completed on the collapsed Bailey Bridge (Guardian, 2008).

San Fernando Train Station - One of the most important buildings in our history is located at Kings Wharf, San Fernando; now the home of squatters and the downtrodden.  This building established in 1882, now the subject of neglect and vandalism, was Trinidad Government Railway Station San Fernando.

On the 5th March, 1859 the Cipero Tramroad became Trinidad's first railway.  It was used primarily to transport produce from the remote estates of the Naparimas out to Kings Wharf to waiting ships.  The Cipero Tramroad was such a sucess that it was eventually absorbed by the Trinidad Government Railway.  The railway was extended to San Fernando in April 1882 and the line was opened to the public on the 16th April the said year (Ottley, 1971).

San Fernando Police Station - The foundation was laid in 1870.  The use of lancet windows and pointed arches framed in brick enclosing an arcade reflect Italian Gothic Revival.  The grey stone would be limestone from the Piccadilly Quaries in Laventille, while the yellow bricks lining the arches are no doubt imported.

One of the most imposing buildings on Harris Promenade in San Fernando with its large tower, it was used initially as a watch tower and subsequently for radio communication.  Built in 1873 as the local Magistrate Court, it also served as a Fire Station until 1919.  The tower was used as an observation point during the Hosay Riots (1884) and the Oilfields Riots (1937).  It then served as the South Police Headquarters until a new one was built in 1996.

On the 17th February 2009, the dormitory and property room was gutted by fire, engulfing court exhibits comprising illegal guns and drugs (Ottley, 1971).  

Blanchissuese Suspension Bridge - One of only two remaining suspension bridges in Trinidad and Tobago can be found in the scenic North Coast in Blanchissuese.  The bridge was first made in Glasgow in 1898 and was originally erected in Mayaro.  It was later moved to Blanchissuese in 1955.  The suspension bridge stretches over the Marianne River and was the  only form of access for villagers who cultivated land beyond it and for a number of residents who lived across the river.

After years of neglect, the wooden planks of the Blanchissuese suspension bridge became rotted and too dangerous to continue allowing vehicles to utilize it.  In 2012, a new Bailey Bridge was erected to replace the old suspension bridge and a decision was taken by then Honorable Minister of Works and Infrastructure Jack Warner to do a partial refurbish of the Suspension Bridge and maintain it as a foot path (Guardian, 2012; Cameron, 2014; Newsday, 2015).  

CLR James House - Cyril Lionel Robert James (1901-1989) was a well known cultural historian, cricket writer and political activist who was a leading figure in the Pan-African Movement.  He was known as one of the brightest and revolutionary minds of his time, leading in the areas of sports and politics.  Throughout his life he published a number of books namely:  The Life of Captain Cipriani 1932, Mint Alley 1936, World Revolution 1937, The Black Jacobins 1938, and Beyond a Boundary 1963 which was deemed his best book and arguably the best book ever written on sport.

After becomming a leading, revolutionary figure in the political landscape in England in 1934 and later the United States of America in 1938, CLR James returned to Trinidad where he began editing the 'Nation' newspaper for the pro-independence Peoples National Movement party.  He also campaigned for the successful appointment of the first black captain of the West Indies Cricket team Sir Frank Worrell.

Not long before his death in 1989, CLR James was granted an Honorary Doctorate from South Bank Polytechnic in London England for his immense contribution to socio-political building work on races and sports.  It is a shame that such a respected son of the soil's house is being left to neglect and the behest of drug addicts and the homeless like so many unappreciated historical sites throughout Trinidad and Tobago (Austin and Kennedy, 2006; Britannica, 2017).

Sean  Nanton

Ph:   868-467-2652

Thank you for contacting me. I will respond within 24hours.

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